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Vanagon Headlamp Relay Upgrade - Why & How

Please note that I am now back home from my travels in the US and Mexico and my shop is open for service.

Details of this adventure are at: Westfalia Travel Blog

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1980 ~ 1985 Vanagons & 1986 ~1991 Vanagons

This document will explain why and how to easily upgrade the wiring on your 1980 ~ 1985 & 1986 ~ 1991 Vanagon to have more powerful headlamp power by installing two relays to transmit high voltage power to your vehicles headlamps bypassing the original headlamp circuit switches.

The reason for this is very simple really. The Vanagon headlamp circuit switches: ignition switch, main headlamp switch and hi/lo beam switch; are not able to handle the amperage necessary for the high draw of the standard headlamps. The contacts in these switches are too small and cause too much resistance and that along with the length of wiring in the circuit from the battery under the passenger's seat and the head lamps at the front make the voltage available at the headlamp bulbs 9.5 volts instead of the necessary 12 volts. Then, if you try to use more powerful headlamp bulbs apart from the standard two 65/45 watt hi/lo beam bulbs and the two 55 watt high beam bulbs ('86 model Vanagons only) you most definitely will have problems with the headlamp switches melting, especially the main headlamp switch and often the ignition switch headlight circuit and rarely the hi/lo beam switch, or insufficient voltage to properly illuminate the bulbs.

A simple cost efficient solution to this problem is to install relays to transmit the voltage and amperage necessary to properly and safely illuminate the standard headlamps or whatever more powerful headlamp bulbs you would like to use. The Vanagon's original headlamp switch will be used to activate the power to the headlamp dimmer switch which in turn activates the power to the relays of either the high or low beam depending on the position of the dimmer switch. Also, a clean-up of the ground return path of the headlight circuit is advisable for proper operation.

You can either buy the pre-wired ready made headlamp relay kits for Vanagons that I have listed on my website below. Or, you can make them yourself.

To build them yourself you will need two 12 volt, 40 amp minimum standard automotive four pin relays of good quality, two relay sockets for these relays either generic or VW OEM ones that snap onto the relay box of the '86 ~'91 model Vanagons relay box, female spade terminals for the relay sockets, 12 and 14 gauge wire, butt connectors, insulated and non-insulated female spade terminal ends, and a good terminal end crimper that works for all types of terminal end connectors including the special terminal end connectors for the relay sockets and a good wire stripper. A complete detailed list of components follows at the end of this document.

There are two wiring plans that follow also, one for the '80 ~ '85 Vans and one for the '86 ~ '91 Vans as their fuse boxes and wiring are different.

Parts you will need:

1980 ~1985 Vanagons

2 - 40 amp or higher 12 volt relays, four pin.

2 - relay sockets, standard automotive type.

8 - spade, female, relay socket, terminals for 12 ~ 14 ga. wire

1 - double terminal end extender

8" - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, yellow

8" - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, white

16" - #12 ga. wire, stranded copper, red

24" - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, brown

2 - spade, female, terminals for 12 ga. wire

6 - spade, female, terminals for 14 ga. wire.

1986 ~ 1991 Vanagons

2 - 40 amp or higher 12 volt relays, four pin.

2 - relay sockets VW/Audi #161 937 501 B or standard automotive type.

8 - spade, female, relay socket, terminals for 12 ~ 14 ga. wire

16" - #12 ga. wire, stranded copper, red

24" - #14 ga. wire, stranded copper, brown

2 - spade, female, terminals for 12 ga. wire

4 - spade, female, terminals for 14 ga. wire.

ATTENTION

VW/Audi relays and Hella relays are not interchangeable in the socket. Pins 30 and 86 are not in the same location. If you need to change the relay in the future please use the same relay, one with the pins in the same location as the one your removed, or you will need to move the wires on the relay socket.

1980 ~ 1985 Vanagon Headlamp Relay Kit

Pre-wired, just cut and connect the wires from the headlamp dimmer switch and do the ground wire terminal end improvement.

1980 ~ 1985 Relay kit $35

1986 ~ 1991 Vanagon Headlamp Relay Kit

Pre-wired, just cut and connect the wires from the headlamp dimmer switch and do the ground wire terminal end improvement.

1986 ~ 1991 Relay kit $55

Shipping & handling for 1 relay kit - $15.00

High output replacement bulbs for 1986 ~ 1991 Vanagons

Standard Vanagon bulbs are 65/45 watt 9004 headlamps and 55 watt driving lamps

It is necessary to use the relay kit to use the higher wattage bulbs

Hella 100/80 watt 9004 halogen headlamp bulbs

$14.95 each - two needed

Hella 100 watt halogen bulbs for the inner square high beams

$12.95 each - two needed

Shipping & handling for the 4 bulbs - $15.00

Shipping & handling for 1 relay kit and a set of the 4 bulbs - $18.00

All Canadian residents add 13% HST to goods only

Please note that it is not necessary to change any of the wiring to use these higher watt bulbs. However, you will need to change the two hi beam fuses from 10 amp to 15 amp.

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Installation Procedure for 1980 ~ 1985 Vanagons

New relay kits are now completely pre-wired with all four wires to the relay installed. Please follow the following directions to install one of these new kits. Please read ALL instructions below to understand what you need to do before beginning.

12 gauge yellow wires from both relay terminals #30 goes to position # 7 as described below.

12 gauge yellow wire from first relay terminal #87 goes to fused position #4 as described below.

12 gauge yellow wire from second relay terminal #87 goes to fused position # 6 as described below.

14 gauge wires from both relay terminals #85 with un-insulated spade connector goes to ground as described below.

14 gauge yellow wire from first relay terminal #86 goes to wire removed from fused position #4 as described below.

14 gauge yellow wire from second relay terminal #86 goes to wire removed from fused position #6 as described below.

Remove the Vanagon's fuse block from the firewall under the left-hand corner of the dash by removing the large Phillips head screws on the mounting bracket. On the reverse side of the fuse block you will find at fuse position #7 a spare male terminal end, on the fused side of the fuse, where you can pick up the necessary 12 volt fused power supply for the headlights. Some people suggest that it is better to drag an all new 12 gauge wire from the battery using a new inline fuse for this circuit but I have not found that it is necessary. The original power feed from the battery to the fuse box, if in good condition, is sufficient to provide the current needed. Fuse #7 should have a 16 amp fuse. Test with a 12 volt light tester to make sure there is 12 volts present when the ignition key is in the on position. Using a double terminal end extender connected to the free male terminal, connect one end of each of the two 8" red 12 gauge wires with a female terminal end securely crimped on each end, to this 12 volt power supply terminal. Crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal end on each of the opposite ends of the two red 12 gauge wires then plug them into the relay sockets so they line up with position 30 of the relays.

*NOTE* - For Safety reasons, you should disconnect the negative terminal from your battery after doing the test for power at the terminals if you feel unsure of yourself working with the electrical circuits involved.

Next, take two 12" 14ga. brown wires and attach one 14 ga. female spade terminal end to each of them. Then attach one female spade relay socket terminal end to each of the other ends. Locate the round grounding block on the firewall above where the fuse block was located. There should be some empty male spade terminals. Plug the brown wires on them. Run these wires to the relay sockets and insert the two female spade terminals with the brown wires attached into position 85 on each relay socket. While there, locate the two brown ground wires from the headlamps which are terminating together in one connector. If there are more than one pair you can determine which pair are for the headlights by turning on the headlights then removing one pair at a time until the headlights go out. Cut the connector off and attach one female spade connector to each wire and reconnect each one to an individual terminal on the grounding block. This will improve the return path of the electricity from the headlamps.

Next, looking at the rear of the fuse box, the side that was against the firewall before you removed it, find at fuse #4 the single 12 gauge yellow w/black stripe input wire coming from the hi/lo beam switch that goes to the two fuses of the low beams of the right and left headlights. This wire should have 12v power when the low beam headlights are on and low beam headlamp fuses, #3 & #4 fuses, are removed. Remove this wire from its connector, cut off the terminal end and crimp on a new female spade relay socket terminal end then connect it to one of the relay holders at position 86. Take the 8" yellow 14 gauge wire and crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal and connect it to the same relay socket at position 87. Crimp on a female spade terminal end to the opposite end then plug it on the terminal on back of fuse 4 where you previously removed the yellow w/black stripe wire.

Next, looking at the rear of the fuse box, the side that was against the firewall before you removed it, find at fuse #6 the single 12 gauge white input wire coming from the hi/lo beam switch that goes to the two fuses of the high beams of the right and left headlights. This wire should have 12v power when the high beam headlights are on and high beam headlamp fuses, #5 & #6 fuses, are removed. Remove this wire from its connector, cut off the terminal end and crimp on a new female spade relay socket terminal end then connect it to the other relay socket at position 86. Take the 8" white 14 gauge wire and crimp on a female spade relay socket terminal and connect it to the same relay socket at position 87. Crimp on a female spade terminal end to the opposite end then plug it on the terminal on back of fuse 6 where you previously removed the white wire.

Now, push the relays into the relay sockets. Then secure the relay holders to the fuse box with tie wraps.

Now your done and ready for a test. Start the vehicle and make sure the charging indicator light is out. Turn on the head lamp main switch. Activate the dimmer switch to see if you have high and low beams operating. Test the voltage at the headlamp plug if you wish, it should now be higher. If everything is satisfactory replace the fuse block on the firewall being careful to position all the wires so that there is no strain on any of them. Enjoy your new headlamp power !

If you decide to use higher wattage bulbs in your headlamps after installing the relays, you may find the fuses will burn out. If this is the case then you can install higher amperage fuses in the fuse positions for the headlamps. Use the next size higher amperage fuse. Do not go higher than necessary to keep your new bulbs from burning the fuses. Usually one size larger is needed and sufficient on the high beam circuit only.

Procédure d'installation pour 1980 ~ 1985 Vanagon

Translation by Pierre Dastous

Avant de débuter, assurez-vous que les ensembles de relais sont bien montés. Le numéro de chaque terminal sur le relais est bien inscrit à coté de chaque languette. Bien suivre les instructions pour l'installation des nouveaux relais. SVP, lire TOUTES les instructions AVANT de débuter de façon à bien comprendre ce que vous devez faire.

***

Vérification du montage des relais:

Sur les deux relais: Un fil de calibre 12 d'une longueur de 8 pouces (20 cm) part du terminal #30 et se termine par un connecteur femelle plat et isolé qui sera branché à l'arrière du bloc-fusible position # 7 tel que décrit ci-dessous.

Premier relais: Un fil de calibre 12 d'une longueur de 8 pouces (20 cm) part du terminal #87 et se termine par un connecteur femelle plat et isolé qui sera raccordé à la position # 4 à l'arrière du bloc-fusible tel que décrit ci-dessous.

Second relais: Un fil de calibre 12 d'une longueur de 8 pouces (20 cm) part du terminal #87 et se termine par un connecteur femelle plat et isolé qui sera raccordé à la position # 6 à l'arrière du bloc-fusible tel que décrit ci-dessous.

Sur les deux relais: Un fil de calibre 14 d'une longueur de 8 pouces (20 cm) part du terminal #85 et se termine par un connecteur femelle plat qui sera branché au bloc de mise à la terre tel que décrit ci-dessous.

Premier relais: Un fil de calibre 14 d'une longueur de 8 pouces (20 cm) part du terminal #86 et se termine par un connecteur d'union femelle rond qui sera raccordé au fil que vous aurez enlevé de la position # 4 à l'arrière du bloc-fusible tel que décrit ci-dessous.

Second relais: Un fil de calibre 14 d'une longueur de 8 pouces (20 cm) part du terminal #86 et se termine par un connecteur d'union femelle rond qui sera raccordé au fil que vous aurez enlevé de la position # 6 è l'arrière du bloc-fusible tel que décrit ci-dessous.

Dévisser les grosses vis Phillips qui retiennent le bloc-fusible à son support puis dévisser le support lui-même de façon à obtenir plus d'espace pour travailler. Faites glisser le tout vers le bas. Attention qu'aucune connexion positive n'entre en contact avec la carrosserie ce qui causerait un court-circuit.

Localiser les bornes de mise à la terre. Elles sont circulaires d'un diamètre de 1 pouce (2,5 cm) et comportent chacune 8 languettes. Il y en a deux près du bloc-fusible, vissées à la carrosserie juste au-dessus et à gauche du bloc-fusible. Plusieurs emplacements devraient être libre.

Sur les bornes de mise à la terre, localiser les fils de retour des phares. Il s'agit de deux fils bruns reliés à un connecteur unique. Allumez les phares et procédez en débranchant et rebranchant les fils doubles pour identifier le bon connecteur. Enlever le connecteur unique et remplacer par un connecteur plat femelle sur chacun des fils. Ceci dans le but d'améliorer le retour du courant électrique. Rebrancher chacun des fils sur la borne.

A l'endos du bloc-fusible, repérer la position du fusible # 7. A cet endroit se trouve un connecteur mâle inutilisé sur lequel vous prendrez le courant 12 volts nécessaire pour les phares. Avec un voltmètre, assurez-vous qu'il est sous tension en tout temps lorsque le contact est mis. En fait, il devrait y avoir du courant en tout temps.

Enlever les fusibles # 3 et # 4. Repérer, à l'arrière du bloc-fusible, un fil de calibre 12 jaune avec un trait noir branché à la position # 4 vous assurer que ce fil est sous tension lorsque le commutateur des phares est allumé et que les phares sont en position code (Low-beam).

Enlever les fusibles # 5 et # 6. Repérer, à l'arrière du bloc-fusible, un fil de calibre 12 blanc branché à la position # 6 vous assurer que ce fil est sous tension lorsque le commutateur des phares est allumé et que les phares sont en position route (High-beam).

NOTE: Pour des raisons de sécurité, vous devriez maintenant couper le contact et débrancher la borne négative de la batterie. La manipulation requise du bloc-fusible et des fils, pour la pose des divers éléments, pouvant causer un court-circuit.

Débrancher les fils identifiés à la position # 4 et # 6 du bloc-fusible et enlever le connecteur qui s'y trouve.

Utiliser un connecteur en Y (un coté femelle, deux cotés mâles) et le brancher sur le connecteur libre à la position # 7.

Vous êtes maintenant prêt(e) à effectuer la modification.

Premier relais:

" Le fil du terminal #87 se raccorde au bloc-fusible à la position # 4.

" Le fil du terminal #86 se raccorde au fil jaune avec un trait noir que vous avez enlevé de la position # 4.

Deuxième relais:

" Le fil du terminal #87 se raccorde au bloc-fusible à la position # 6.

" Le fil du terminal #86 se raccorde au fil blanc que vous avez enlevé de la position # 6.

Les deux relais:

" Les fils du terminal #30 se branchent à l'arrière du bloc-fusible sur le connecteur double que vous avez installé à la position # 7.

" Les fils du terminal #85 se branchent sur les bornes de mise à la terre.

Utiliser des attaches pour câbles (tie-wraps) pour fixer les deux relais de façon sécuritaire au dessus du bloc-fusible sous le tableau de bord. Il n'y a pas d'endroit précis pour les fixer.

Vous êtes maintenant prêt à tester le tout. Rebrancher temporairement la borne négative de la batterie et démarrer le véhicule. Assurez-vous que l'indicateur de charge est éteint. Allumer les phares et vérifier que le tout fonctionne bien, notamment les basses et les hautes (code et route). Si vous avez testé le voltage aux phares avant la modification, faites le à nouveau, il devrait avoir augmenté.

Débrancher à nouveau la borne négative de la batterie et remettre en place le bloc-fusible en prenant bien soin de ne pas coincer aucun fil. Voilà, c'est terminé. Profitez bien de votre nouvel éclairage!

Si vous décidez de l'utilisation d'ampoules de plus haut wattage, il se peut que les fusibles d'origine se mettent à griller. Vous devrez alors opter pour un fusible de capacité supérieure mais d'un cran seulement. Habituellement, ceci est nécessaire uniquement sur le circuit des phares de route (high beam).

Installation Procedure for 1986 ~ 1991 Vanagons

12 gauge yellow wires from both relay terminals #30 goes to fuse block as described below.

12 gauge yellow wire from first relay terminal #87 goes to yellow wire at fuse block as described below.

12 gauge yellow wire from second relay terminal #87 goes white wire at fuse block as described below.

14 gauge wires from both relay terminals #85 with un-insulated spade connector goes to ground as described below.

14 gauge yellow wire from first relay terminal #86 goes to yellow wire from dimmer switch as described below.

14 gauge yellow wire from second relay terminal #86 goes to white wire from dimmer switch as described below.

Remove the Vanagon's fuse block from the firewall under the left-hand corner of the dash by removing the two large Phillips head screws on the mounting bracket. The metal mounting bracket needs to come along with the fuse block to give better access to the space behind.

Install the two relay sockets to the top edge of the fuse block. There may already be one or two fuse sockets and one relay socket there. You can move whatever is there already so that you will be able to group the two new relay sockets side by side. To move the relay socket or fuse sockets release the two locking tabs that are holding them in their mounting.

Locate on the back of the fuse block the two red 12 ga. wires that are plugged to the two large male spade terminals on the fuse block. These will be on the lower left-hand corner of the fuse block. Just up from these two terminals are four unused smaller male spade terminals, sometimes some of the four are already used due to factory options or other owner installed accessories. You will have to deal with this situation on your own so that you can gain access to the terminals you need. Test them with a 12 volt light tester to make sure they have 12 volts present when the ignition key is in the on position. Some people suggest that it is better to drag an all new 12 gauge wire from the battery using a new inline fuse for this circuit but I have not found that it is necessary. The original power feed from the battery to the fuse box, if in good condition, is sufficient to provide the current needed. Run two 8" 12 ga. wires from two of these terminals by using the two female spade terminal ends crimped securely to the ends of the 6" 12 ga. wires, to the two relay sockets. Crimp a relay female spade terminal on the end of each of the 12 ga. wires. Then push them into position 30 on each relay socket.

Remove the plastic cover from the underside of the steering column, two screws and spring clipped in place, to expose the wiring to the turn signal/dimmer switch. Locate the 12 ga. white and yellow wires leading to the switch. Follow these two wires back to the fuse block. Cut these two wires so that the four resulting wire ends will reach the relay sockets. Crimp a female spade relay socket terminal end onto each of the ends of the four wires. The yellow wire from the switch goes to position 86 on one relay socket and the yellow wire from the fuse block goes to position 87 on the same relay socket. The white wire from the switch goes to position 86 on the other relay socket and the white wire from the fuse block goes to position 87 on the same relay socket.

Procédure d'installation pour 1986 ~ 1991 Vanagons

Translation by Pierre Dastous

***

Vérification du montage des relais:

Sur les deux relais: Un fil de calibre 12 d'une longueur de 8 pouces (20 cm) part du terminal #30 et se termine par un connecteur femelle plat et isolé qui sera branché au bloc-fusible tel que décrit ci-dessous.

Premier relais: Un fil de calibre 12 d'une longueur de 8 pouces (20 cm) part du terminal #87 et se termine par un connecteur d'union femelle rond qui sera raccordé au fil jaune provenant du bloc-fusible tel que décrit ci-dessous.

Second relais: Un fil de calibre 12 d'une longueur de 8 pouces (20 cm) part du terminal #87 et se termine par un connecteur d'union femelle rond qui sera raccordé au fil blanc provenant du bloc-fusible tel que décrit ci-dessous.

Premier relais: Un fil de calibre 14 d'une longueur de 8 pouces (20 cm) part du terminal #86 et se termine par un connecteur d'union femelle rond qui sera raccordé au fil jaune provenant de la colonne de direction tel que décrit ci-dessous.

Second relais: Un fil de calibre 12 d'une longueur de 8 pouces (20 cm) part du terminal #86 et se termine par un connecteur d'union femelle rond qui sera raccordé au fil blanc provenant de la colonne de direction tel que décrit ci-dessous.

***

Dévisser les deux grosses vis Phillips du support en métal qui retient le bloc-fusible. Faites glisser le tout vers le bas. Attention qu'aucune connexion positive n'entre en contact avec la carrosserie ce qui causerait un court-circuit.

Localiser les bornes de mise à la terre. Elles sont circulaires d'un diamètre de 1 pouce (2,5 cm) et comportent chacune 8 languettes. Il y en a trois près du bloc-fusible. Deux sont vissées à la carrosserie juste au-dessus et à gauche du bloc-fusible. Un autre se trouve sur la carrosserie de devant, au fond et plus haut, derrière le bloc-fusible.

NOTE: Surtout sur les véhicules munis des accessoires vitres, miroirs et verrouillage électrique, il se peut que les deux bornes de gauche soient déjà entièrement utilisées. Il vous faut alors transférer quelques fils (3 ou 4) sur la borne du fond, qui est en général inutilisée, de façon à libérer 3 espaces sur la borne la plus rapprochée du bloc-fusible.

A l'endos du bloc-fusible, repérer deux fils rouges de calibre 12 dans la partie inférieure gauche. Juste au-dessus de ces fils, vous trouverez trois ou quatre terminaux males inutilisés. Avec un voltmètre, assurez-vous qu'ils sont sous tension en tout temps lorsque le contact est mis. En fait, il devrait y avoir du courant en tout temps.

Reprendre le fil double, enlever le connecteur unique et remplacer par un connecteur plat femelle sur chacun des fils. Ceci dans le but d'améliorer le retour du courant électrique. Rebrancher chacun des connecteurs sur la borne.

Installer les deux relais sur le bloc-fusible. Il y a probablement d'autres relais déjà installé que vous devrez relocaliser pour placer les deux nouveaux relais cote à cote sur la partie supérieure gauche du bloc-fusible. Pour enlever ou poser les relais, il y a deux languettes autobloquantes sous chacun.

Enlever le couvert de protection sous la colonne de direction (deux vis et un clip de retenue). Dans le bas, repérer quatre fils de calibre 12 sortant d'une gaine de protection noire. Il y a un fil jaune, un blanc, un jaune a trait rouge et un blanc avec trait noir. Suivre les fils blanc et jaune jusqu'au bloc-fusible. Ne vous préoccupez pas des deux autres fils.

Couper le fil blanc et le fil jaune à environ 6 pouces (15 cm) du bloc-fusible en vous assurant d'avoir assez de jeu pour pouvoir effectuer les connexions avec les fils des nouveaux relais.

Vous êtes maintenant prêt(e) à effectuer la modification.

Premier relais:

" Le fil du terminal #87 se raccorde au fil jaune coupé qui se rend au bloc-fusible.

" Le fil du terminal #86 se raccorde au fil jaune coupé allant à la colonne de direction.

Deuxième relais:

" Le fil du terminal #87 se raccorde au fil blanc coupé qui se rend au bloc-fusible.

" Le fil du terminal #86 se raccorde au fil blanc coupé allant à la colonne de direction.

Les deux relais:

" Les fils du terminal #30 se branchent à l'arrière du bloc-fusible sur les terminaux males identifiés plus tôt.

" Les fils du terminal #85 se branchent sur les bornes de mise à la terre.

Débrancher à nouveau la borne négative de la batterie, remettre en place le couvert de protection de la colonne de direction et remettre en place le bloc-fusible en prenant bien soin de ne pas coincer aucun fil. Voilà, c'est terminé. Profitez bien de votre nouvel éclairage!

Comments

Subj: Re:Vanagon Headlamp Relay Upgrade

Date: 1/30/2002 9:01:34 AM Eastern Standard Time

From: Henry.Luhrs@Bruker-BioSpin.com

Hi Frank,

The only thing you might want to add is that all of the grounding of the headlights comes back to that round grounding block behind the fuse box. In four headlight Vanagons, there are two wires which are connected to a single female spade terminal. This terminal carries all of the current for all four headlights. After a few years gets pretty corroded (and hot) and eventually starts making intermittent contact. I separated the two ground wires and connected them each to a separate female spade terminal. This doubles the current capacity for the grounding of the headlights, and slightly increases the voltage to the bulbs too. It's easy to do while you're adding the relays cause you already have the fuse box off and can get at it.

Henry

Absolutely correct ! Great piece of important information from Henry. Thanks !

Subj: Relay upgrade

Date: 9/11/2002 11:23:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time

From: ben@kbmc.net

To: fkc43@aol.com

Hey Frank,

Thanks for the help on the phone. The installation is finished, and it works beautifully. It's raining tonight, so the wet pavement makes it hard to see exactly how much brighter the lights are, but it's clear that they are much better than before. Have you ever tried higher wattage bulbs with this setup? If so, what's the max wattage the relays/wiring/fuses could handle?

Two suggestions on your installation procedure on your website. First, I'd mention removing the ground strap from the battery (except for the testing of the four extra spade connectors on the fuse block). Second, after removing the fuse block, I found it very helpful to remove the metal mounting bracket from the fuse block as well--that allowed the block to be rotated forward a couple of inches, which made working on the relays and wiring a LOT easier.

Thanks again,

bmc :)

"Faith will move mountains, but you'd better bring a shovel...."

Subj: Re: Relay upgrade

Date: 9/12/2002

To: ben@kbmc.net

Ben, glad it all worked out well for you. Yes, I have tried higher wattage bulbs. I am currently using Hella 100/80 XEON bulbs. No problem with anything melting. They work just fine and are much brighter than the stock ones. There are some other options as well like Sylvaina or Phillips 80/65 bulbs.

Your suggestions regarding improvements in my installation procedures are great and will be posted soon. I'll give you credit for the suggestions. The fuse block bracket, I normally remove and never thought about someone removing the box without removing the bracket. The disconnection of the battery is because I'm used to playing with fire and I like the thrill of trying to do it without causing sparks ! Never even dawned on me that it may be safer for all the rest of you. Thanks for the suggestions.

Cheers

Frank Condelli

Subj: Relay Upgrade Install Instructions

Date: 5/24/2003 2:17:17 AM Eastern Daylight Time

From: lbusch@ix.netcom.com

To: fkc43@aol.com

Finally got around to installing the relay kit I purchased from you six or eight months ago. A couple of comments:

1) The spare male spade lugs have 12v on them even with the ignition off. Your instructions say “make sure they have 12 volts present when the ignition key is in the on position”. This is slightly confusing.

2) Your instructions assume that the reader is doing this from scratch, not with you pre-wired kit. Again confusing because most of the instructions cover making up the wires you have already provided.

3) RE: Improving the ground returns from the headlights. This is great, but on my ’90 I have two of the round ground points and several double brown wires coming in. Is there a practical way to determine which pair is coming from the headlights?

BTW, this is meant to be positive in nature, not a flame.

Thanks

Loren, thanks for the comments and they were construed as positive feedback before getting to your last sentence. No.1 - yes it is a bit confusing, I will revise that statement. Should be 12 volts present at all times on these lugs, key on or off, it was meant to make sure the installer found the correct lugs. No.2 - Yes I realised that, but I wanted the instructions complete so that someone who wanted to get all their own parts could do the relay install from scratch. That's why I list all the individual components needed. I was going to have two sets of instruction posted there but then that would be even more confusing and take up more space. No.3 - Very easy, turn on the headlights and then remove double ground wires until the headlights go out, viola you've found the correct pair. Maybe I should add that comment as well. The van I did the first install on and then wrote the instructions did not have more than one double set of grounds. I have since learned this is not always the case.

Cheers

Frank Condelli

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